At The Ship & Shovell, there is a choice to be made before you even order your drink. This quaint boozer, just outside Charing Cross, has the lofty distinction of being the only pub in London that exists in two halves. Originally two distinct pubs — The Ship and The Shovell — these pubs occupy terraced houses built in the 1730s on opposite sides of an alley, which were both converted into pubs during the Victorian era. The two were united in 1998 and are apparently linked by an underground tunnel, which also houses the pub’s kitchen and cellar.
When faced with picking a side, we opted for the smaller left-hand entrance (as you approach from Charing Cross), which was once known simply as The Shovell. Though one may assume the name references the labourers who would shovel coal in London’s dockyards, the strange spelling of “Shovell” indicates that it was actually named after Sir Clodesley Shovell, a top Admiral in the Royal Navy during the 17th century. After an illustrious career, Sir Shovell perished when his ship the HMS Association crashed into rocks near the Isles of Scilly. The ship went down in an astonishing three minutes, and all 800 men on board lost their lives. It’s unclear why this pub chose to align itself with such an infamous figure, though presumably the nautical connection was once more salient, as in pre-skyscraper days, the Thames could be seen from a porthole window on the first floor.
Though we only took a quick peek in the half across the road, it’s unclear what history The Ship is bringing to the table. The Shovell is certainly cosier, with attractive wooden booths and a snug in the back. There’s also a handsome upstairs room that can be rented out for private functions. Perhaps these are all reasons why The Ship decided to merge with their more interesting neighbour!
Not to diminish The Ship’s charms — no matter what side of the pub you choose, you are sure to have a lovely time in this classic Victorian boozer. The brewer on draught is Hall & Woodhouse, which are found in only a handful of pubs in the city, making it a welcome change from most other central London pubs. During our time whiling away the hours and people watching from our booth, we enjoyed a Badger ale and a crisp Helles Lager, along with serviceable garlic mushrooms and mozzarella sticks.
Beer selection: 3.5/7
Food selection: 4/7
Ambience: 4.5/7
Aesthetic: 5/7
IPQ: 5/7
Overall: 62.86
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